Bunda cliffs , Mundrabiddi then a slog to Madura
Stats 139+130+116 total 365 km
This is the real Nullarbor now and the grey nomads have been waving and giving cherry toots all day . Expansive bleak landscape with very low scrubby saltbush – saw an evil dark brown snake slithering across the highway. Gave it a wide berth as I understand Australian snakes are reputed to be the most venomous in the world.
There are several ” official ” viewing points for the Bunda cliffs and many unofficial tracks as well. At two of these photo spots the grey nomads offered tea / coffee which I gratefully accepted.
By 4pm – after 8 hours on the road I started looking for a spot to camp. Found an old track and this amazing spot right on the edge of the cliffs. The sound of the waves crashing against the rocks far below made for a troubled sleep. Started packing things up at about 6.30 am in a very cold blustery sou’wester. It was freezing and my fingers suffered until I was finally able to get the gloves on and start the cycling again. Warmed up rapidly in a fine clear day with a nice assist from an easterly trending wind.
Alf and Helen – a very kind couple who I first met at one of the Bunda cliffs observation points. They kindly gave me water and a nice cup of tea and some home baking. The next day we met again and later on they pulled over on the roadside and offered me more tea and baking and some shade from the unrelenting sun . Alf is 79 years old – looks so much younger .
The border crossing is a major bio security checkpoint where west bound traffic must ensure they have not fresh fruit veg and honey. West Australia does not have the bee disease EFB and it appears that they have kept it on the eastern side of the border. Surprising actually as it must be nearly impossible to stop every single grey nomads from bringing a little honey thru – hiding just a small amount.
The border official – a lady checked me out, I said I had had no fresh fruit for a week and could she give me an apple from her amnesty / confiscation bin.
She replied that it was possible however I was going in the wrong direction – so no.
“Any honey with you ?”
” only Sharlene ”
I thought she was going to put on some latex gloves – but she let me thru with a smile.
Left Mundrabiddi at about 7am with a blustery northerly that at times was a NW so very hard going. My legs felt leaden and in knew from the start that it was going to be a really hard day. 116 Kms to Madura – I am absolutely finished to the point of exhaustion and dehydration. From a cold start I now am contending with high temps and an unrelenting sun from the right hand side.
Madura is on the edge of the major escarpment that you descend from after leaving Eucla. I followed it all day yesterday and from here there is a climb back up to the top of the escarpment. A great spot with comfortable digs and a wonderful restaurant that actually served vegetables with the meal – a rarity out here. They need to bring Jamie Oliver out here to educate the roadhouses in an effort to provide healthy wholesome food for the professional heavy traffic road train drivers. These guys are HUGE – like the rigs they drive.